Floribunda roses for beautiful blooms all season

The name 'Floribunda' is of Latin origin and means "many flowered" or "abundance of flowers" and this variety of rose certainly lives up to its name. These roses have been described as some of the most colorful of the modern rose types. Typically, their flowers are arranged in low-growing large clusters. The Floribunda rose is the result of crossbreeding a Hybrid Tea and a Polyantha in the 1920's. The Floribunda is considered by many to be a better breed than the Hybrid Tea because of its capacity to produce many blooms over an extended period of time. Many people grow them for display rather than to use as cutting-flowers. They're a beautiful landscape plant that can produce an abundance of color season after season.

Floribundas, much like their ancestors, come in a large assortment of colors and styles. The difference is, however, that these flowers are much more vigorous and hardy than Hybrid Tea roses. Generally, Floribunda plants can grow up to four feet tall. A notable plant of similar size that has become increasingly popular over the last few years is the Rob Roy. Its roses, which offer a sweet soft scent, bloom in a deep red color. The flowers will bloom continually from spring until late fall provided there aren't any severe frosts. They're extremely bold in mass planting.

Prior to planting your roses, you should pick a garden location and get your soil prepared. Add a nice compost of manure or other organic matter to your soil. It's worth mentioning that active blooming roses flourish in a few inches of organic mulch. It's also suggested that you plant your flowers 18 - 24 inches apart from one another. You want to provide ample space for them to grow.

Dig a hole that will be deep enough for roots to spread without any restriction; about 8 - 10 inches deep is fine. If you wish, you can add bone-meal to the soil, as it is high in phosphates. Now you're ready to plant. Remove your plant from its plastic container and gently place it into the ground. Backfill the hole with loose soil and then pack any loose soil firmly with your palm. Repeat this process for every plant. When you're finished, water your new plants thoroughly. For the first couple of weeks, you should water your new roses on a daily basis. After that, a weekly irrigation should be sufficient.

Basic pruning should be done in late winter months. Most gardeners choose January or February, depending on their climate. Remove all debris and dead foliage from the plants and their flower bed surroundings. Snip any dead bark-like canes. Old flowers must be removed in order to promote new growth for the coming season.

Although you should try to maintain some shape to your roses, be gentle with the cuts. It's been noted by many horticulturists that Floribundas under one year of age flourish with a cane length of 6 inches. If it's warm enough you'll want to fertilize the ground during this time. Add organic matter to your soil and watch your flowers bloom beautifully in the months to come.

Elegance in your garden with hybrid tea roses

A modern rose, the Hybrid Tea Rose is the result of two old timers getting together: the Hybrid Perpetual and the Tea Rose. These gorgeous modern flowers grow on large stems and bloom throughout the year. Although this rose only gives off a faint scent, it makes up for this shortcoming with its many petals and tall stature. The Hybrid Tea Rose is commonly referred to as "your basic rose on a stick." These roses are the most popular roses to give or receive on special occasions.

A Hybrid Tea will look fabulous in any garden. Gardeners should plant them in rows by themselves. It's much easier to tend to them this way. Be sure to keep this area weed-free. These roses, like most flowers, do not take well to weeds. You should space your flowers approximately twenty-four inches apart from one another. This will ensure a good growth habit. If you're up for the challenge of growing hybrid tea roses, plant them this spring and start a tradition.

Many gardeners steer clear of the Hybrid Tea Rose because they're turned off by the idea of thorns. Well, the wonderful thing about this flower is that there are actually several thornless varieties! When you're shopping for these flowers, look for tags that read 'smooth' on the label. This, of course, implies that the rose is thorn-free. You can find these flowers in every color, with the exception of blue.

Hybrid Tea Roses require plenty of water during hot weather, especially if the hot weather is accompanied by dryness. Although most gardens require a good soaking every two weeks, other gardens require a weekly soaking. Regardless of the schedule, if the ground looks very dry and cracked, you should water your flowers. Placing mulch around your roses is a very good idea. The mulch will help prevent weeds and conserve moisture.

The Hybrid Tea Rose will most likely reach its full height after approximately three years. Even after pruning, the flower will grow back to this height annually. Most modern roses, such as the hybrid tea, live a span of six or seven years, and longer if the flower has been given exceptional care. It's important that your roses are given sun. Roses require a minimum of six hours of sun a day. Morning sun is essential to a rose's proper growth. The morning sun will dry up excess moisture and dew, which will help prevent diseases from developing.

In February, when your flowers are dormant, you'll want to prune your roses. Your first step will be to remove dead branches and damaged canes. In colder climates, you'll most likely have to cut all the old damaged wood. Look for lively green canes. Those are the canes that will produce buds in the spring. In warmer areas, remove any existing leaves from the plant, as this will promote new growth. Lastly, remove any debris from your garden. Now you're ready for spring. As spring approaches and your roses begin to grow, you should fertilize your home garden with a high-nitrogen fertilizer.

Miniature roses are great accents for your garden

Whether you're planting miniature roses indoors or out, they are very easy to grow. Although these little guys have often been frowned upon because they give off little or no fragrance, they're the perfect accent to any home or garden. Miniature roses are practically maintenance-free. Just give them a "bath" once a week and they'll last forever.

There's a common misconception about miniature roses. When people hear the term "miniature," they assume these roses will make a perfect houseplant. Prior to moving your roses indoors, consider that miniature roses can grow up to four feet in height. This large house plant will undoubtedly need an ample source of light. The micro-mini roses however, only grow to approximately five inches in height and are just as easy to maintain. If you're still determined to keep your miniature roses indoors, there are several tips that will make caring for your roses a simple task.

Place your plant in direct sunlight. These flowers flourish in the sunniest windows of your home. If the stems of your miniature roses appear to stretch out, leaving wide gaps between the leaves, your rose is not getting enough light. You should either move the plant to a new location or provide supplemental light. Make sure to bathe your plant on a weekly basis. Spraying your plant will reduce the risk of a spider-mite attack. Gently mist the top and underside of the leaves. The spray will remove dust. Make sure that your plant looks comfortable in its pot. If the pot is too small, the plant will be cramped. If the pot is too large, your roses will be reluctant to grow.

Outdoors, most miniature roses bloom from spring until the winter season. If you cover your plant with mulch, it will have a good chance of surviving frost and the coldest winters. You can plant your roses directly into the ground, a hanging basket, or in an 8 - 10 inch pot. Make sure your plant isn't shaded by large trees or anything that will cast a shadow. These little plants love direct sunlight.

If you choose to plant your roses directly into the ground, dig a good hole about one foot in depth and width. Take your rose out of its pot and gently untangle any loose roots. Place the roots down into the hole. Take loose soil and refill the hole so that your miniature roses are planted levelly. Water your plant thoroughly. These same rules apply to potting your plant.

Don't let the soil dry out. The first three weeks are crucial to any plant's health. Water your new plant every day for three weeks. These roses do enjoy their water! However, after the three-week period is over, your goal is to keep your soil moist. Check the soil on a daily basis. If it feels dry, give your plant a little water.

Miniature roses will look great in your living room or along the edges of your flower beds or anywhere your home needs a little burst of color.

Drying roses - What you need to know...

Roses are beautiful flowers that have graced homes for literally thousands of years. Roses are flawless, colorful, large, small and simply perfect in every way, except for one: a rose, being a living thing, eventually will die.

But there are ways to let their splendor live on! Drying roses is a great way to preserve their beauty. With very little effort and very little expense, dried roses can look just as exquisite when put together in an arrangement as fresh.

Rose Drying Techniques

Air drying and sand drying are two common rose drying techniques. Air drying is easiest and requires only a good pair of shears, some wire, a coat hanger and a dark dry location. Begin by cutting the stem from the rose, as close to the head of the rose as you can get. Then insert a piece of wire about 6 or 8 inches long into the rose head.

When drying roses they need to be upside down, so take the end of one wire and wrap it around the bottom part of the hanger. Continue wrapping the wires of each rose until the hanger is full. Leave some space in between each rose head so air can circulate. Then place the hanger into a dark, dry area (an unused closet works great). It'll take roses anywhere from 1 – 3 weeks to dry thoroughly.

Roses can also be hung in bunches upside down from a nail. Just leave stems intact, remove bottom leaves, gather a few stems together and hold with an elastic band. Place in a dark, dry area until dry.

The sand rose drying technique takes a bit more effort, but works great! You cut a rose while it's still at its peak, and cut the stem so that about one inch remains. Make sure the leaves and stem are dry (no dew or other water). Place florist's wire into the stem and up into the head of the flower. Next find a deep open box and begin filling it with white-colored sand until the roses can stand upright in the sand.

Next carefully begin adding sand around the base, and under and over each of the petals. The goal is to use the sand as a way to maintain the shape of the rose. Continue filling the box with sand until each rose is covered. Move sand-and-rose filled box to a drying area and leave it there for 1 – 3 weeks. Take extreme care when removing dried roses. Slowly tip the box to begin emptying sand. Grab onto each rose as it becomes free of the sand and continue until all roses are sand-free.

Roses can also be dried using wax, glycerin or a desiccant but these techniques are a bit more involved. Another popular drying method is to place a rose between the pages of a book.

Dried roses have many uses. They're perfect in floral arrangements, decorative wreaths, wedding bouquets and favors, and framed artwork. Dried rose petals make great potpourri and confetti, too!

Versatile shrub roses for the garden

The name, Shrub Rose is somewhat confusing because a rose, any rose in fact, is actually a shrub. Most varieties of roses can be considered shrub roses including hybrids, modern roses, old garden roses, and even miniature roses. The term "shrub" refers to the appearance of the rose plant, which in general resembles that of a bush or shrub. Shrub roses are a great colorful alternative to use anywhere you would plant another type of shrub.

Shrub roses can be used as a screen or hedge plant for privacy, as a border, in the background, and any other way you can think to use this bountiful bush. Although the flowers from Shrub Roses carry little fragrance, they do come in a wide assortment of colors. Pink, red, white, and yellow are all common colors for a shrub rose's abundant and vibrant flowers.

Unlike many other roses, Shrub Roses are perfect for planting anywhere. They're "plant-friendly" and can mingle into any mixed assortment of flowers. In addition, Shrub Roses are very winter-hardy and they have excellent disease tolerance. These round easily-maintained bushes are not typically considered a "small" plant. Many older Shrub Roses can grow up to six feet in height. If desired, Shrub Roses can be trained to grow like hedges.

It's generally the modern shrubs that are much smaller in size. Several modern shrub roses have been popularized in recent years. Ground Covers such as Cliffs of Dover, Flower Carpet and Jeepers Creepers have been a treasure for homeowners with sloped or uneven lawns. They also grow wonderfully in hanging baskets and containers. Regardless of the variety you choose, Shrub Roses can be a wonderful feature at the entrance to your garden or home.

If you purchase your shrub from a nursery, you'll want to dig a hole that is double the width and length of the pot that contains your shrub. Use a sharp instrument to cut the plastic pot away. The idea here is to disturb the roots as little as possible. Once you have the plant free from its container, place it in the hole. Fill in the remaining space with loose soil and soak the plant with water. Make sure the plant is in a very sunny location. Generally speaking, Shrub Roses require a minimum of eight hours of full sun on a daily basis. The direct light combined with moist soil will ensure maximum flower production.

Fortunately, Shrub Roses require very little maintenance. The soil should always be moist. If you live in a climate that receives very little rain during the summer months, you'll want to water your shrubs twice a week. If you're looking for gorgeous results and optimal growth, fertilize your roses in the spring and fall with organic fertilizers. Pruning is not necessary with this shrub, as it is basically self-cleaning. Shrub roses will release their own dead foliage, creating a neat appearance through every season. Some of the prettiest roses are 'ever blooming.' Purchase this type of shrub if you're looking to purchase a recurrent bloomer that will profusely bloom several times annually.

Before you plant another green shrub, consider planting Shrub Roses instead. The most trouble you'll have with this plant is deciding which is the prettiest to bring home!

Dealing with the rose disease that is Blackspot

Blackspot is a prevalent rose disease that is caused by the fungus Diplocarpon rosae. Should your rose bushes develop the telltale signs of Blackspot, remedial measures must be taken immediately. Otherwise, the bush will begin producing fewer blooms and the rose's ability to survive the winter months will be jeopardized.

Blackspot is easy to recognize in its latter stages, but might not be noticeable in the beginning. In fact, by the time blackspot starts showing signs, as few as 3 to as many as 10 days have already passed since the fungus first germinated. The first visible symptom is black-colored spots on the leaves. As the disease progresses, a yellow ring forms around the black spots and the spots spread through to the underside of the leaves. Spore-producing spots will be visible upon close examination. The black spots will continue to grow and soon the entire leaf may turn yellow. Many of the yellowed leaves will begin falling off the bush.

Blackspot is a fungus and as such, it spreads. It'll easily jump from one bush to another for as long as it's left untreated. The fungus can survive on the fallen leaves through the winter, and also on the cane where it has been infected so growers cannot rely on the harsher weather to kill it.

Like most fungi, Blackspot thrives in warm, moist environments. Spores will germinate after 7 hours of being wet and when the ambient temperature is between 65 F (18 C) and 75 F (24 C). The warmer the weather, the quicker the disease spreads.

Proper care of your roses is the only way to prevent this disease from developing or spreading. Since spores can survive on fallen leaves, it's crucial during the fall season to rake up and remove all dead leaves from the ground and cut away any infected canes. In the spring, when roses are still dormant, head to the nursery and purchase wettable sulphur and a soap containing fungicide and then spray all rose bushes thoroughly with both. The spores cannot adhere to the sulphur, so the leaves are protected whenever they're covered. Because the sulphur will wash off in rain it's important to reapply whenever necessary.

The fungus needs a wet environment for germination, so take extra care to keep the leaves moisture-free. For example, plant roses in sunny locations as opposed to shady places so that the morning dew evaporates more quickly. Use sprinkler hoses when watering so that only the roots get watered and not the leaves. Water early in the day, so there's plenty of time for water to evaporate. Prune the bushes regularly so that air can flow freely among the leaves and be sure to allow plenty of space between bushes for the same reason.

When roses exhibit symptoms of Blackspot, first cut away affected parts and throw clippings in the trash, not the compost pile (remember the fungus on leaves won't die). Then spray all the leaves with sulphur.

If given a bit of tender loving care, your roses will produce beautiful flowers year after year!

Tips for pruning your prized roses

Pruning and deadheading are important parts of your rose care routine. There are as many different opinions about how and when to prune as there are roses in need of pruning.

While individual rosarians may have their favorite "tried and true" methods, this article is geared towards new rosarians who have no idea where to start. As time goes by you may feel the urge to modify these techniques or even develop some new ones of your own. That's great. Variety is the spice of life and anything that doesn't kill your roses can't be that bad, right?

Rose pruning isn't as complicated as some people make it out to be. In fact, there are only four basic rules and a few common sense ones. If you keep these basic rules in mind every time you pick up your pruning shears, you'll be rewarded with beautiful bushes that reflect the care that you put into them.

1. Always keep the center of your bushes free of growth. This denies insects a place to live, and allows good air circulation which helps to keep down the instances of fungus infection.

2. Always remove any dead or decayed growth. This keeps your bushes looking better and also denies disease and insects a place to call home.

3. Shape your rose bushes as they grow. This adds symmetry to your garden and transforms your bushes from wild and wooly to prim and proper like all good roses should be.

4. Remove crossing branches to promote stronger growth,

Common sense rules

Always using sharp pruning shears and clean the shears after use to remove any disease or fungus spores.

Seal the cuts you've made to keep out disease. Save your money and use regular Elmer's glue. it works just fine and it's a lot cheaper than commercial preparations.

Here's a look at common pruning terms and techniques as well as some guidelines for what types of roses to use them with.

Hard or "Low" Pruning

Cut canes back to three or four buds from the base or the bud unions. The end result is strong canes which are about 4 to 5 inches in length.

This pruning technique works best with new hybrid tea, grandiflora, and floribunda varieties. You should not do hard pruning with established bushes because they may not recycle. The only exception is as a last-ditch effort to revive sick or neglected bushes.

Moderate or Medium Pruning

Cut strong stems back to approximately half of their length. Weaker stems may be cut back even more if needed.

This technique works fine with established gardens of floribundas, hybrid teas, grandifloras, and tree roses.

Light or High/Long Pruning

Cut the canes back to around 2/3 of their length. After all unwanted wood is removed any remaining stems are "tipped".

Light pruning is not generally recommended for most bushes as it tends to produce early blooms and poorly developed flowers. Use this technique only if others are not working and the bush is an eyesore to begin with.

Some tips for your rose exhibition day

Now that you finally have a rose garden that you can be proud of, it's time to take the next step and let others judge the beauty of your roses. Rose shows and exhibits are exciting events where you get a chance to see how your roses stack up against those from other rosarians. It doesn't matter if you win, just the experience will teach you a lot.

Before entering your own roses, take the time to visit a few rose shows so you can see how everything works.

If at all possible, try to get permission to enter the preparation room so you can see what experienced displayers do before the judging begins.

Get a copy of the rule book from the American Rose Society. Visit their web site at www.ARS.org for information.

When you decide that you are ready to enter a show, look for one that's close to home so you can keep your travel time and expenses to a minimum. There are plenty of exhibits that offer special judging classes for beginners, so try to find one of those.

Follow this timetable and you'll be ready to face the judges on the day of the show:


30 days before the show

Start the process of narrowing down you choices to the rose that you will be showing. It's easiest to start with displaying one single bloom on a stem. Be sure to select a rose with a sturdy and straight stem.

Begin preparing the rose for exhibit by cutting off all of the buds that are forming between the side of the stem and the leaf. This focuses all of the nutrients to the single bloom at the end of the stem.

Support the cane of your selected rose by staking it with a bamboo stake and some rose or twist ties. This protects the cane and helps to support the rose as it grows.

Spray fungicide when needed and promptly remove aphids and spider mites if they appear. Aphids can be removed by spritzing with soapy water. Spider mites can be lightly sprayed with plain water.

Water your roses as you normally do and apply organics and fertilizer as required.

Put together your toolkit for the day of the show. Most experienced rosarians include the following in their kits:

Several soft cloths Q-Tips Shears Plastic wrap Small, soft artist's paintbrush ARS Rule Book


Seven days before the show

Cover your selected bloom with a baggy that's secured below the bloom with a tie at night, and remove the baggie before the sun rises in the morning. Do this every night until you leave for the show.


Two or three days before the show

Cut the rose following the instructions in our "Tips for cutting roses for display" article. Cut the stem a bit longer than usual because you will be re-cutting the day of the show.

Place the rose in a florist's bucket, cover the bloom with a baggie and tie it off below the bloom. Place the bucket and rose in the refrigerator.


The morning of the show

Remove the rose from the refrigerator, place the container and rose safely in your car, grab your kit, and head for the show!

You need to know the climate zones for your roses

If you want to be the proud owner of a bountiful garden this year, the first thing you need to find out is which climate zone you live in. It's helpful to know that your town gets a lot of sunshine throughout the year, but that's not enough. It's actually the cold temperatures that make a difference in what you can and cannot grow in your area.


Know Your Zone

Anyone who knows anything about gardening will tell you that the most reliable source of this type of climate information is the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Consisting of 11 different climate zones covering all 50 states, Canada and Mexico, this map will help you determine what you can plant in your garden.

When you purchase plants, they'll come with a set of growing instructions that'll describe the growing conditions the plants need to thrive. It doesn't matter whether you plan to plant vegetables, flowers or plants to use as landscaping. Don't purchase anything until you've checked the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map and confirmed your climate zone.

The map is quite large and very colorful. Its creation was a joint collaboration of the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) and the Arnold Arboretum (of Harvard University). The map is a compilation of years of weather data that tracked the average low (coldest) temperatures in various regions throughout the United States. Each of the different colors represents a different climate zone with Zone 1 being the region with the lowest (coldest) temperature. There, temperatures climb as low as -50 F (-45 C). At the opposite end of the zone chart is Zone 11, where the lowest temperature any time of year is always above 40 F (4 C).

The boundaries between the different climate zones for the most part lie as you would expect, with the colder zones covering the northernmost parts of North America and gradually warming the further south you go. Slight variations can be seen at points of higher elevation, again, as would be expected.

It's easy to figure out your area's climate zone. If you're online, locate a website with the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map and then click where you live (get as close as you can). The map will zoom in on your region and inform you of the corresponding zone. Then you'll know!


Why the Map is Important to Rose Gardening

Roses really aren't as difficult to grow as most people think. They do require regular care and maintenance, but the number one thing roses need is an appropriate climate in which to grow. There are many varieties of roses and some are hardier than others, making them better able to handle colder climate zones provided they've been given the proper seasonal preparations. If you live in a colder hardiness zone (a lower-numbered zone) you'd want to look for roses that are bred for that zone, otherwise, you might find that those same roses that looked so perfect in the nursery don't look so healthy in your garden!

Cutting roses for display - doing it right

What could possibly smell or look better than a vase of beautiful rose blooms on your table or the table of someone you love? Roses, especially hybrid tea roses, are made to be cut and they can last a very long time in a vase if you follow these simple tips.

Always make sure that you cut your roses with a sharp and clean pair of shears. Dull shears will crush the rose's stem, and dirty shears can transmit disease to your other blooms.

Roses store and process their nutrients on a schedule. Hold off cutting your roses until after 3 PM when their nutrient levels are the highest.

It's too late to cut a bud when it is fully open. Choose buds which have started to open, but are only 1/3 to 1/2 of the way through the process.

Don't remove all of the leaves from the cut stem. Leave at least 3 to help feed the bloom, but cut off all leaves that will be below the water level of the vase.

Once you have cut all the roses that you will be cutting for the day, bring them inside and start the water conditioning and hardening process.

Roses can live for an amazingly long time in a vase if you understand what it takes to keep them alive.

The first threat to a cut rose's health is the air that it sucked up when you cut the stem outdoors. This little "air pocket" which entered the cut stem works its way up to the bloom where it ultimately shortens the blooms life.

That air needs to be replaced with water. The easiest way to do that is to fill a bowl with hot tap water, as hot as you can stand to put your hands into, but not scalding hot.

Add whatever floral preservative you use plus a few drops of bleach.

Now place all of the rose stems into the bowl. Do not let the buds touch the hot water.

Use your shears and cut approximately 1/4 inch off the end of each stem and leave the roses in the bowl until the water cools to room temperature.

Fill your vase with warm water, add a drop or two of bleach and a bit of preservatives. Then add your roses.

This little bit of extra work, as well as the addition of a few drops of bleach, will extend the vase life of your cut roses longer than you can imagine.

Whenever the water starts to get cloudy, remove the roses, refill with hot water, add a drop or two of bleach, and return the roses to the vase at once.

When your bloom begin to show signs of wilting, re-cut about an 1/8 of an inch from the stems and place the stems into hot water for about an hour before returning them to the vase.

What is the All-American Rose Selection (AARS)?

Did you realize that there's an organization of rose enthusiasts who actually care that the roses you purchase live up to the highest standards of quality? Well there is and most people don't even know this organization exists. Most consumers probably take for granted a rose's beauty and heartiness because they think that's just the nature of the rose. After all, how else could this elegant beauty have survived through countless centuries?

Well it might surprise you to know that not all roses are worthy of the AARS' Seal of Approval. If a rose cannot measure up to the strict standards set forth by the AARS, the All-American Rose Selections, then it won't get this seal that since 1983 has become synonymous with quality in the world of roses.

This not-for-profit organization of introducers and growers of roses prides itself in evaluating roses not only on how well they look, but also how well they can deal with various changes in climate and even how well they can ward off the peskiest of pests and disease.

For two long years, several new rose specimens are grown in approved test gardens that are located all over the United States. These testing areas are located in California, Massachusetts, West Virginia, Illinois, Wisconsin, Washington and 13 other states of varying climate zones to see how well each specimen can tolerate the different weather patterns.

Those in charge of the test gardens have agreed to follow the growing guidelines developed by AARS, ensuring consistency throughout the evaluation phase. The guidelines are not overly complex. They've been developed in a way that the average rose grower can understand which also helps to ensure that if a rose does ultimately receive the AARS Seal of Approval it can be successfully grown and maintained by anyone, regardless of their level of rose-growing expertise.

Besides the climate, the rose specimen under evaluation receives numerical scores in many other areas including its fragrance, its color when it opens and when it peaks, its foliage, its ability to flower, its buds, stems and flowers, its vigor and finally its overall value.

Each year several new specimens pass the test and are awarded the AARS Seal of Approval. The 4 winners for 2006 are: Julia Child, an old-fashioned grand dame, just like its namesake with a buttery gold color and excellent disease tolerance; Rainbow Sorbet, a floribunda with a medium sized flower in a bright mix of orange, yellow and red; Wild Blue Yonder, a grandiflora with shades of lavender and the scent of citrus and rose; and Tahitian Sunset, a grand hybrid tea that produces peach-apricot-pink flowers 5 inches in diameter with up to 30 petals each, finished off by the scent of licorice.

Remember, part of the testing criteria is that the AARS winners must be easy to grow by an average-skilled gardener. So make plans to visit your local nursery or garden or home center this spring to snatch up these best of breed roses. They're also available online and via mail order.

Climbing roses for a gloriously romantic garden

Colorful climbing roses can add a dramatic effect to your home. They're nice because you can wind them around a trellis, a column, or even let them climb up the side of your home. It's interesting to note, however, that many seasoned gardeners fear climbing roses. This is likely because of the belief that climbing roses can get damaged by cold weather and also because they can take years to reach full maturity. Despite these facts, there is a wide selection of climbing roses that can sustain harsh weather.

The best time to plant any type of climbing rose is early spring. Follow this advice and your roses will have about six or seven months to become established before the cold sets in. Before choosing climbing roses for your home, you should first get acquainted with the three distinct categories of climbing roses: ramblers, trailing roses, and true climbers.

The most intrusive climbing roses are the ramblers. These exuberant roses can grow up to twenty feet in one season. Although most of the roses from ramblers are quite small, many of the newer varieties produce large roses. Unfortunately, ramblers have a tendency to be susceptible to mildew.

If you're looking for a climbing rose that is tougher and less prone to mildew and disease, your home might need the touch of trailing roses. These climbers look great planted along walls. It's suggested that you stake them because otherwise, the long canes will grow along the ground instead of upright. Trailing roses typically bloom approximately two to three inches in diameter. Two of the more popular trailing roses are the cultivars and Rosa Wichurana.

If you enjoy climbing roses with large flowers, true climbers may be what you're looking for. These types of roses produce flowers in large clusters. There are two categories of true climbers: bush climbers, and climbing hybrid teas. Bush climbers will continue to bloom throughout the season, while climbing hybrid teas may only last for a few weeks out of the season. The bush climber has more resistance to mildew and disease than the climbing hybrid teas.

Planting your roses is an easy task. The first thing you'll need to do is choose an area to dig a hole. Your hole should be approximately one foot from your trellis or arch. Once you've dug a hole, you'll also need organic matter. Well-rotted manure or compost should be added to the soil. Next, carefully remove the rose from its container. If you come across tangled outer roots, gently untangle them with your fingers. Place your plant in the hole and fill it in with any extra soil. Water it thoroughly once you've planted it.

You should water your climbing roses at least once a week. The soil should be saturated. Once your rose's canes have grown long enough to reach the trellis or arch, tie the canes to the structure. Unlike a vine, which is equipped with tendrils, climbing roses have to be attached to a structure. You can tie them with a soft cloth or string. The idea is to give the canes enough room for growth and expansion. Be sure not to tie them too tightly.

Choose the right roses for your home and watch them climb for years to come!

Old garden roses can produce that antique and aristrocratic look for your garden

Old Garden Roses are any of the rose varieties that were recognized and celebrated prior to 1867, the year in which the first modern flower was introduced. The name of this flower is the hybrid tea. The major classes of Old Garden Roses include: bourbons, noisettes, portlands, species, centifolias, albas, chinas, damasks, hybrid perpetuals, moss roses, gallicas, and teas. Although some of these roses are native to the United States, the majority are from Europe and Asia. The roses that are often referred to as "Old Fashioned," or "Antique Roses," have actually served as the predecessors to some of the most beautiful modern hybrids.

Unlike Modern Roses, which are applauded for their vibrant colors, compact buds, and recurrent blooming, 'Old Fashioned' Roses are usually pastel in color and are single blooming. Their much-anticipated annual blooms have come to symbolize the arrival of summer.

These flowers are true survivors. Most Old Garden Roses are hardy even in some of the coldest and poorest weather conditions. It's as if they can withstand anything. Their versatility can rarely be matched by other classes of roses. Despite their durability and strength, these roses flourish best when planted in a favorable situation. The roses require a minimum of six hours in direct sunlight on a daily basis. The ideal location for your Old Garden Roses is an open area, away from shade-producing trees. The soil in this area should be well-drained and fertilized prior to planting.

While many people ignore the fertilization process, soil preparation is a very important element in growing healthy beautiful roses. You should add a large quantity of organic material such as manure to the flower bed prior to planting. The fertilizer will enrich the soil and aid in water drainage. It's highly recommended that you prepare your garden several months in advance to allow the nutrients to settle. Your Old Garden Roses will prosper in this rich environment.

Once your flower bed is prepared, you're ready to begin planting your roses. Although it's a little dirty, it's a very easy task. Dig a hole about eight inches deep. Remove the plant from its plastic pot. Carefully untangle any loose roots and place the plant directly into the hole. Fill any remaining space with loose soil. You won't need any soil additives at this time. Just be sure to saturate the ground with water. Your new plant will require water on a daily basis for three weeks. If the ground looks like it's very dry, give your plant a quick shower.

Although many people don't like the appearance of mulch, it can truly be a gardener's best friend. Mulch really helps to repel weeds. It's also great for holding moisture, which encourages your flowers to bloom radiantly in the summer months. Don't worry about diseases unless you see strange spots on the foliage. Although Old Garden Roses have been known to be disease resistant, it doesn't mean they're 100% disease-free. However, it's very rare that a disease will debilitate these plants. They're extremely tough and very self-maintaining.

If you're looking for something new to plant in your rose garden, select any of the Old Garden Rose varieties. The blooms and fragrances will please your senses and are the reasons why these roses have withstood the test of time.

Common diseases that plague roses

There's nothing worse than seeing all of your hard work destroyed by a rose disease or fungus. Roses can be weakened during the winter dormancy and become more susceptible to disease when the growing season begins.

Even if the bush survived winter unscathed, spring rains and summer's heat and humidity can open the door to a variety of fungus infections.

Here is a summary of the most common diseases which could pose a threat to your roses.

Powdery Mildew

This is a fungus disease that produces a white powder along the tops and bottoms of the leaves and along the stems. Left untreated the plant will not grow to its full potential and the leaves will die and drop off.

Rust

Rust looks like an orange powder which appears on the underside of leaves and will spread to other parts of the plant.

Blackspot

Hybrid teas are blackspot resistant, but many other varieties are susceptible. The disease appears as circular black spots on the plant's leaves which range between 1/16 to 1/2 inch in diameter. Left untreated, blackspot will destroy your plant's foliage.

Rose Mosaic

Unlike most rose diseases, which are fungal in nature, Rose Mosaic is caused by a virus. Symptoms generally resemble discolored mosaic patterns and yellow and green.

The only treatment is to remove the infected plant from the garden. Make sure that you also remove all leaves and clippings which fall from the affected plant.

If you are unable to stop the spread of fungus-based diseases by simply cutting back the affected areas, see you garden supply professional and ask about commercial fungus treatment products.

You can reduce the chances of your roses being affected by fungus if you follow these tips:

Always water the soil around the rose plant and never water the plant itself.

Clean your rose beds regularly and remove all clippings and fallen leaves.

Cut any diseased canes or blooms and dispose of them in your trash can.

Practice regular pruning and pay special attention to pruning out the center of the bushes to allow air to circulate.

Seal all cuts. Elmer's Glue works fine. It's safe, effective and inexpensive.

Feed your roses regularly. Wee-fed roses are better able to resist infection.

Choose disease-resistant roses whenever possible, especially if you live in areas with high heat and humidity. Remember that disease-resistant does not mean disease-free. It simply means that there is a less likely chance of the plant becoming infected if you follow all of the tips that you read here.

Choosing the right roses for your garden

There's an enormous selection of roses that you can grow in your home garden. With such a large selection to choose from, your decision may seem more like a difficult task than the fun that it should be. In order to make this process easier, there are a few important factors that you should consider prior to choosing your roses.


Color

How will the color of your roses effect your garden? Look at different catalogs, as well as your neighbors' gardens, to get an idea of the colors you like best.

While the color of your roses might not seem very significant, you should consider the colors of other plants and flowers that your roses will share the garden with. Will the assortment of colors look nice, or will they clash? For some, color-arrangement is a priority; while for others, it's no big deal.


Size

In addition to color, the size of the roses you choose is very important. Consider the height of your roses at full-growth. If the roses grow fifteen feet in height, will they look unattractive in your garden? Remember, the size of roses vary. While some roses may grow up until eight feet, other can grow up to twenty feet in height.

Measure the area of your garden prior to choosing the roses you want to plant. Compare your width and height measurements with roses you're looking to purchase. Your roses should have an ample amount of space to grow as well as plenty of exposure to the air. If you only have a small amount of space to dedicate to roses, you may want to consider growing miniature roses. These roses do not take up a lot of space and are easy to plant and care for.


Climate

Although height is an important factor in your rose garden planning, choosing the right roses for your particular climate zone is just as important. In order for your roses to grow healthy and mature, they have to be adjusted to your climate. For example, if you live in an area where it snows six months out of the year, you'll want to make sure you purchase roses that can withstand cold temperatures.


Maintenance

How much time are you willing to spend maintaining your roses? Do you live to be in the garden, or are you more of a low-maintenance type? There are several types of roses which are very high-maintenance. Although they will look beautiful in your garden, they will require a lot of your time. The classification known as "Modern Roses" are very beautiful, long blooming, and highly fragrant, however they are very high maintenance and are prone to disease.

The rose classification known as "Old Garden Roses", on the other hand, have been bred to be very disease-resistant and require less maintenance. "Old Garden Roses" blooms for several months at a time, and have a strong and beautiful scent. The bad news is that people with strong allergies to fragrances will have a terrible time around them. If that seems like it will be a problem for you then consider any of the variety known as "shrub roses". They are also disease-resistant and long blooming, but do not produce as strong a scent.

If you're new to gardening and want to try your hand at growing roses, landscape roses may be your best option. These roses are easy to care for and disease-resistant. They'll look stunning just about anywhere. If your garden has trellises, you can add several climbing roses as well. Although climbing roses look very similar to landscape roses, climbing roses have been trained to grow upward like vines. They're a beautiful touch to any home.

Planting potted roses, how to do it right

It wasn't too long ago that no serious rosarian would even consider having a potted rose on their property except for, maybe, last minute emergencies where they had run out of space but couldn't resist buying just one more plant.

Times have changed and potted roses have a place in the lives of condo and apartment dwellers, city slickers who live in areas where there isn't a tree in sight, and anyone who has a spot on their lawn or garden in need of the beauty that only a rose can deliver.

Not all roses are good candidates for growing in pots. The following varieties have been found to do best. Feel free to try any variety that you want, even climbers, and see how they make out.

* All that Jazz
* Ballerina
* Blush Noisette
* Bonica
* Cecile Brunner
* Clotilde Soupert
* Green Rose
* Gruss an Aachen
* Hannah Gordon
* Hermosa
* Katharina Zeimet
* Mrs. Oakley Fisher
* Peace
* Perfume Delight
* Precious Platinum
* Sea Foam
* Sexy Rexy
* Souvenir de la Malmaison
* Stanwell Perpetual
* The Fairy
* Valentine
* Whiskey Mac

Planting potted roses is a relatively easy task as long as you do your planting in the spring after any chance of a frost is long past. If you live in a warm climate zone, then hold off planting until autumn when the ravages of July and August are far behind.

When you're ready to plant, choose an appropriate sized container with drainage holes. Make sure that the container has enough room for your plant to grow without having to transplant frequently.

Fill the container with garden soil that has some compost or organic fertilizer mixed in.

Dig a hole that's a bit bigger than the root ball, knock the rose loose from its shipping container, and plant it.

Dig a shallow trench or moat around the base of the plant to hold water, and water well.

Potted roses are susceptible to the same diseases as garden roses are, and they require feeding, pruning and all of the other rose care basics. Potted roses aren't less work or responsibility; they are simply more space-saving than a regular rose garden. Don't treat your roses as if they were ordinary potted plants or you will lose them.

People are constantly asking if they can grow potted plants indoors. The answer is: "Maybe, but it's a risky proposition." That's because roses need high humidity and a lot of direct sunlight. High humidity conditions do not usually exist inside of most air-conditioned homes. However, if you live in a hot, steamy area, and you don't have air conditioning, then you can probably get away with it as long as you pick a sunny spot.

Of all the rose varieties that are likely to survive indoors, miniature roses are your best bet. Miniature roses are actual roses that have been bred to grow into small and compact plants with equally small flowers. They do very well in pots and are quite beautiful.

If you're willing, go ahead and experiment. You've really got nothing to lose and you just might discover a whole new aspect of rose gardening!

Accentuate your garden with rose trees

Looking for a colorful way to make a grand statement? If you like to putter around in the garden, then do what the nobles of the past did and surround your home with rose trees. Doing so will definitely add an air of elegance to any landscape.

Rose trees, also known as Rose Standards, differ from rose plants or rose shrubs in that they are actually cultivated to resemble a tree. A rose tree consists of a long, slender cane, 32 – 36 inches (about 1 meter) in length, void of any foliage from which an abundance of rose flowers literally burst forth. The 'tree' is created by making two grafts: one at the top of the central cane to support the hybrid tee, grandiflora or floribunda and one at the bottom, at the rootstock.

Miniature rose trees are created in a similar manner, the difference being that the central cane measures only approximately 24 inches. Whether regular-sized or miniature, the end result is a unique rose that has the shape of a lollipop.

To endure the weight of the grafted rose on top, the central cane usually must be staked. Staking is especially important in areas prone to wind. Another problem with rose trees, besides the usual pests and diseases that plague all roses, is the sun. The cane part of the tree rose is especially susceptible to sun scald.

During the winter months it's difficult to protect rose trees from the cold. With regular roses, all that's required to prepare for winter is a layer of mulch around the base. But with the rose tree, to be protected from the cold, mulch must be placed all the way up the cane. The only way to accomplish this is either by relocating the rose tree during the winter, or by engineering a container made from wire mesh to surround the cane that can be filled with mulch.

Besides the seasonal care, growers have to diligently prune rose trees to achieve the right look. The central cane should never be pruned, only the flowering top part. How you prune will depend on the type of rose that sits atop the cane so know the right way before beginning. Improperly pruned roses, regardless of type, are more prone to diseases. And with the rose tree, it can cause an uneven distribution of weight that could break the stems.

You'll find several different species of rose trees. The newest to hit the market is the 'double decker' rose tree that produces two layers of flowers. One is on top, as you would normally expect to see, and the other layer begins closer to the ground although this layer is not considered ground covering. Yellow Ribbons Double Decker is a beauty. Another popular rose tree is the 'weeping' tree where arched rose stems overflowing with roses cascade towards the ground. The Roseberry Blanket Weeping Tree Rose produces large-sized fuchsia blooms.

Even though Rose Standards require more attention, the attention they'll get when they're established and in full bloom is well worth the effort. They'll add height to your garden and bursts of vibrant color throughout your landscape.

About rose classification

Although there is no one set of "official" classification system of roses, there are many different popular rose classification schemes that are employed throughout the world. The most popular of the systems in use has been proposed by The American Rose Society in cooperation with the World Federation of Roses. Although this classification system is not the only one in use, a large majority of internationally established societies have adopted this scheme for classifying roses.

According to the American Rose Society, there are three main groupings of roses: the Species; Old Garden Roses; and Modern Roses. Species Roses, the origin of every other rose class, are commonly referred to as "wild roses." These "wild roses" are easy to identify, as they normally have five petals, are once-blooming, and are generally thorny shrubs or climbers. Several popular Species Roses include: Cherokee Roses, Dog Roses, Gallic Roses, French Roses, and Redleaf Roses. Species Roses can be found throughout the Northern Hemisphere, as they flourish in temperate climates.

Unlike Species Roses, which existed millions of years before man walked the earth, Old Garden Roses are identified as a major class of roses recognized before 1867.

Most Old Garden Roses bloom once per season, usually at the arrival of summer. Old Garden Roses occur in a variety of shrub and vine sizes. Although colors vary, Old Garden Roses are typically white or pastel in color. These "antique roses" are generally preferred for lawns and home gardening because they are easy to care for. Several groupings of roses are classified as Old Garden Roses including: China, Tea, Moss, Damask, Bourbon, Hybrid Perpetual and Noisette roses. Many "antique roses" have a strong sweet scent, which makes them very desirable.

Old Garden Roses are the predecessors of Modern Roses. Any rose which has been identified post 1867 is considered a Modern Rose. This group of roses are very popular. The Modern Rose is the result of cross breeding the hybrid tea with the polyanthus. The colors of a Modern Rose are lovely, rich and vibrant. Most of the roses found in this class flower repeatedly when cared for properly. Perhaps that is why horticulturists find this class so attractive. The most popular roses found in the class of Modern Roses are the hybrid tea, floribunda, and grandiflora. Although Modern Roses are adored by florists and gardeners, they do not adapt well to colder environments.

After a rose has been classified according to the three main groupings, a rose can then be further classified by color, scent, growth habit, ancestry, date of introduction, blooming characteristics and size. It is very difficult for horticulturists to classify every rose, especially the hybrid roses which often seem like a grouping of their own. While there has been much debate on classifying roses, the American Rose Society appears to have the most functional system for these stages of classification. Perhaps this is why the American Rose Society's classification system has been adopted by so many rosarians the world over.

The right tools for your rose gardening needs

Like any job you tackle, the work is always much easier if you arm yourself with the right tools. Before heading out to your rose garden, make sure you bring along these basic rose gardening tools.

Pruners
A good pruner is one tool that you will use almost daily. There are two types of pruners on the market. One is called an "anvil" pruner, and the other is called a "bypass" pruner. An anvil pruner has blades that meet on top of each other. Bypass pruners have blades that pass each other like scissors do. Always use bypass pruners so you don't crush your canes and stems.

Loppers
When your rose garden starts to mature there will come times when this will be an indispensable tool for cutting back old, thick canes that are too much for a set of pruning shears. If you are just starting your rose garden, save your money as you won't need this for a few years.

Long-Handled Shovel
Choose a lightweight model with a strong handle. Shovels with fiberglass throats are good choices. Spend a few extra dollars and get one with a padded handle as it will save you lots of blisters as the years go by.

Wheelbarrow
Avoid the temptation to buy the cute garden "carts." You are going to need a real wheelbarrow. As your gardening addiction, I mean hobby, takes off there will be no end to the things you will be hauling in and out of your garden. Some of those things will be very heavy and you'll be glad that you have a real wheelbarrow to help you.

Gloves
"You can complain because a rose has thorns, or you can rejoice because thorns have a rose." - Tom Wilson

The rose garden is no place for thin, wimpy gloves. Unless you enjoy feeling the thorns pierce your skin, opt for leather work gloves with those big, fold-down cuffs.

Kneeling Pads
Some people prefer the big 8"x15" water-resistant pads with handles, while others prefer strap-on knee pads. The kneepads are more convenient because they move when you move, but the one-size-fits-all knee cups may not work for you. In that case, the pad will suit you fine.

Short Garden Digging Fork
This tool is indispensable for turning and loosening soil in small patches. Choose a good quality model with steel forks and a sturdy handle.

Watering Wand
Great for watering potted roses and for giving your other roses a good root soaking. Choose a model with a quick shutoff valve on the wand itself, and a quick release fitting for the end that plugs into the hose. Spend the money to get a model with brass fittings instead of plastic. It will last years longer.

Garden Rake
These are the rakes with the sharp steel teeth that you use for leveling and smoothing beds. Choose one with a sturdy handle and steel tines.

Leaf Rake
You'll use this tool a lot for cleaning up clippings, leaves and other garden debris. You may want to buy both a "regular" size rake, and one of the smaller "child size" rakes for pulling debris from tight quarters.

You shouldn't have any trouble locating a source to purchase these basic rose gardening tools. Your local garden supply store likely will stock these tools, or if you don't mind purchasing gently-used items, check out area yard sales for your gardening supplies. Have fun!

Preparing your roses during the end of autumn

The months of November and December can be an awkward time for many rosarians. While the growing season is coming to and end, the winter hibernation season has not yet begun. Some of us just don't know what to do with ourselves or our rose bushes during this period of time.

Because your bushes are not yet in hibernation they still require some attention from you. Water continues to be a prime need, so make sure that the soil around their roots continues to remain moist. Give them a good soaking as need be, but, as always, don't over-water.

Water is an important part of your roses' winter survival requirements and properly hydrated roots will help them stay protected when the cold weather arrives.

Stop all pruning and deadheading activity so you do not encourage new growth. You should have stopped applying organics last month, and you don't want to apply any more fertilizer now either. Your goal is to keep your roses healthy while, at the same time, encouraging them to begin the process of going into dormancy.

Continue spraying at least once each month to combat black spot. Spider mites are still active during late autumn so keep your eye out for them. Spritz your blooms and foliage with water whenever you see signs of infestation. Aphids are also active now, so have a bottle of soapy water ready to send them packing.

Pick off any diseased leaves and rake away any fallen leaves from your rose beds. This not only improves the appearance of your garden, it also removes any disease residue which may be still on the leaves.

This is also a good time to prepare your new rose holes and rose beds for next year's growing season. They will have time to "mellow" over the winter season and will be ready to accept new bushes in spring.

Begin the process of piling mulch around your more delicate varieties such as "St. Patrick", "Color Magic", "Oklahoma" and "Signature". Your hardier varieties can wait until next month. See our "Winter Gardening" article for mulching tips.

You worked hard all season to keep your roses healthy and beautiful. If you did everything right, you were probably rewarded with waves and waves of beautiful blooms. Your hard work is almost over for the year, but don't neglect your roses during these important final months.