5 Things a Gardener Must Have

Gardening is fun and rewarding and may be considered a hobby, talent or both and sometimes it’s just luck. Gardening is not as easy as it looks and involves dedication, time and consistency and many trials and errors. There are many aspects to maintaining a healthy garden, but some aspects are more important than others. An individual who likes to garden can have the knowledge to produce the best garden in the world, but without the right equipment and materials it just wouldn’t be possible.

Below you will find a list of the top 5 pieces of equipment which gardeners simply cannot live without:

1. Trowel – A trowel is a shovel-like piece of equipment which is used to dig up dirt and set small plants. There are many styles to choose from and type of handle on your trowel will determine how well it works. Easy grip, non-slide and non-slip grips are the best form of handle to choose. These will be easier to use and will require less work than any other form of trowel. A trowel with no grip will be difficult to use and could end up ruining your garden. Try one out in your hand first to ensure it feels comfortable. There’s nothing like having your hand cramp or the trowel slip while using it to dig in a beautiful, new plant.

2. Pitchfork – A pitchfork is a gardening tool which has 2-6 prongs and a long handle. The sizes of pitchforks vary, depending on what they are being used for. The space between each prong varies as well. Pitchforks are used to separate, lift and throw loose pieces of material such as dirt and leaves.

3. Spade – A gardening spade has a long, thick handle and a heavy flat blade. This tool is used to dig up and move pieces of dirt from one place to another. It can also be used to pack down dirt once the flower has been planted.

4. Pruning Shears – Pruning shears are tools which have a long handles and blades. This type of gardening equipment is used to allow gardeners to precisely prune rose bushes and other plants and unruly vines, etc. It can also be used to cut the grass at the edges of walkways and garden beds, in those hard to reach places. It is also used to trim the edges and remove dead leaves or wood on flowers. There is no other piece of gardening equipment which can do the same job as pruning shears. Without the use of this piece of equipment, your garden will end up looking messy and disorganized. Always, always, always invest in good quality pruning shears. Good ones have a lifetime guarantee and low-end ones will make shrapnel of your heritage rose.

5. Wheelbarrow – A wheelbarrow is one of the larger pieces of garden equipment. It is a cart with a handle and at least one wheel which is designed for easy transportation of materials from one place to another. Purchasing a wheelbarrow will save you a lot of time and effort, especially if you are off to the compost heap, and will make for a pleasant gardening experience. Another option is the 4-wheeled gardening cart.

There are many pieces of gardening equipment which will make this hobby easier and more efficient, however the ones listed above are recognized as the most important. These pieces of equipment will likely last a very long time.

Raising your own shrubs

A good way to stock a new garden with shrubs is to propagate your own. Not only does it save money, but growing a healthy plant from a cutting can bring a great sense of satisfaction. If you want to plant a large area using one type of plant, it is well worth propagating your own from one bought plant.

Not all shrubs are suitable for raising from cuttings. In general, the more expensive shrubs are more difficult to propagate, and are best bought from the garden center or nursery as plants. These include Acer palmatum var. dissectwn, azaleas, Cotinus coggygria, daphne, Elaeagnus pungens 'Maculata', Fremontodendron californicum, Garry a elliptica, hollies, lilacs, Mahonia x media 'Charity', rhododendrons, Viburnum carlesii and natives such as bottlebrushes and eucalypts.

Ground-cover shrubs can be easily propagated from cuttings, as well as certain types of hedging, such as lonicera and box. In mid to late summer, many types of shrubs can be taken as semi-ripe (that is, firm but not woody) cuttings and inserted into trays filled with a mix¬ture of equal quantities of compost and perlite, or vermiculite. Place the cuttings under a simple propagator made from garden wire bent into hoops and covered with polythene. Alternatively, insert the cuttings into the soil in a sheltered part of the garden and cover with the propagator frame. The young plants can be lifted the following spring and potted before you plant them out in the garden.

Dealing with pests and propogating your garden

Most plants are generally trouble free, but from time to time they may be attacked by pests and diseases. If there is not much damage, or there are not many pests, it may not be worth taking action. Instead, let birds and other natural predators clear up the problem. For example, leave aphids that appear on shrubs and trees in spring, in particular on roses, for ladybird beetles, which will greedily devour them. However, you will still need to monitor any signs of attack to ensure that they stay under control. As a general rule, do not spray routinely against pests. Instead, try to encourage a balance between pests and natural predators.

Keep your plants healthy. Choose the right plant for the soil conditions in your garden and put it in the most suitable position. Ensure that newly planted shrubs are sufficiently watered and fed until they become established. A plant under stress because of lack of water is more susceptible to fungal diseases. Remove any dead or diseased foliage or stems to stop problems spreading to other plants.


Tonic for sick plants

If a plant lacks certain nutrients, it will look unhealthy - with pale or yellowing leaves, stunted growth or withering stems. In general, sick-looking plants are suffering from more than one nutrient deficiency. However, it can be difficult to identify which deficiencies a plant is suffering from, because there are so many different types, and symptoms can vary from plant to plant. As a quick and easy solution to reviving a plant that you suspect is lacking nutrients, give it a liquid feed that contains a good mix of trace elements or a foliar feed for faster uptake. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions. Some liquid feeds can also be used at half strength as a foliar feed.

Pruning for better results

As long as you keep to a few basic rules, pruning is not complicated - it can even be enjoyable. Prune little and often to keep your plants under control and in good health; it left for years pruning will build up into a massive task. Not all shrubs must be pruned each year, but they should be checked and lightly trimmed when they get untidy. It is important to know a little about the shrubs that you grow, to determine when and how to prune them.

When pruning, make as clean a cut as possible to avoid damaging the plant Try to prune to an outward-facing bud or pair of buds. On shrubs with lots of thin stems, such as lavender, Melalenca incana, Geraldton wax and Senna artemisioides, it is not easy or practical to make such a precise cut, so in order to save time, prune them with garden shears. After a few weeks they will lose their stark appearance.

Rejuvenating an old shrub

Old, overgrown, multi-stemmed shrubs can be rejuvenated by pruning them over several seasons. In the first year, in early spring, cut out a quarter to one-third of the old wood as low down in the plant as possible. This will encourage strong new shoots to grow. When the new growth is at its maximum - probably in mid summer - trim it back by one-third to make the plant bushier. In the second year, cut back the remaining old wood to leave only the new growth from the previous season.

Pruning Tips

• Do use the right tool - secateurs for finger-thick branches, loppers for branches up to 3 cm thick, a pruning saw for anything bigger.
• Do make as clean a cut as possible.
• Do prune out all dead, diseased or damaged wood before starting to prune a shrub to shape.
• Do cut out any frost-damaged shoots once frost-free weather has arrived.
• Do remove any shoots with all-green leaves on variegated shrubs as soon as they grow, or they will take over.
• Don't worry about pruning to a bud if the plant has thin, wiry stems.
• Don't prune on wet, cold days, because wet foliage makes the job unpleasant. Choose a fine, dry day.
• Don't prune if in doubt or unless the shrub really needs it.

Routine shrub care

Maintenance tasks will need to be carried out regularly in order to help your garden to become established, and to keep it neat and tidy. If time is short, concentrate on weeding and watering new shrubs and trees. To ease the task of deadheading flowering shrubs, gather together the flowering stems once they are past their best and trim them with a pair of secateurs. Alternatively, for shrubs with thin stems such as lavender, Geraldton wax and santolina, cut them back with garden shears.

Weeding
When creating a new bed, start with clean, weed-free ground. If you are not in a hurry, leave the area clear for a year. As weeds appear, either hoe them out or spray them with a weedkiller. Never allow weeds to flower and drop seeds, or you will have a problem for years to come. Hand hoeing is an effective way to kill annual weeds. Do not waste time raking off small weeds after hoeing, unless the soil is wet: they will soon rot down. You can also control them by laying mulch matting right through your planting areas, or growing evergreen shrubs that are densely foliaged to the ground. When you have a complete cover of such shrubs, light is excluded from the soil and few weeds will grow. A thick layer of mulch such as compost can suppress some weeds, but many of the worst weeds will just grow through it. Think of mulch as a soil conditioner and moisture conserver rather than a treatment for weeds.

To save time weeding around established shrubs, use a glyphosate-based weedkiller when weeds are young, small and actively growing. Glyphosate is sold under a number of proprietary brands. Check the label to ensure you have bought the right product. Glyphosate should only be sprayed on a still day, as the chemical will damage other garden plants if it drifts onto them. To guard against this, use a coarse, rather than a fine spray and cover nearby plants with plastic. Glyphosate is biodegradable, leaving no residue in the soil, which means you can put in new plants after only a week.

Watering and Feeding
New plants need watering and feeding in order to develop a strong root system and to grow, while established plants may need watering in dry weather. To save time, lay a seep hose around the shrubs and connect it to a tap with a time switch; set it to turn on the water at night when it is cooler and evaporation lower. If you have to use a hose, concentrate the water on the root area of the plants. To water the roots of shrubs and trees directly, sink a plastic pipe, or a plastic bottle with both ends cut off, into the soil.


Jobs Calendar

Spring
Just before growth starts, prune deciduous shrubs that flower from early summer onwards and those that have colored stems. Prune deciduous shrubs that flower in spring immediately after flowering. Evergreen shrubs are usually pruned after bloom. Conifers are sheared in spring if necessary. Apply mulch right across the root zone. Feed everything in spring.

Summer
Water deeply as needed. Control weeds, remove faded flowers.

Autumn
Rake off any leaves smothering small plants or ground cover. Let the rest form a mulch, rotting down into the soil.

Winter
Make sure that garden beds and borders are weed free before spring. Have a general tidy up.

How and when to buy plants

Most plants are bought at garden centers, nurseries and supermarkets. The range varies according to the time of the year, as plants in flower are the easiest to sell. Most plants are sold container-grown and can be planted at any time of the year, but the best times to plant are in spring or autumn when the soil is warm and moist, and the plants become established quickly. Summer planting requires more aftercare - you have to ensure that the plants are well watered - and in winter growth and establishment are slow.

Some nurseries and mail-order companies supply bare-root plants - grown in the soil and then dug up to sell. Bare-root plants, mostly fruit trees or roses, are sold only when dormant in winter, which is also when they should be planted.

Avoid the temptation to buy all your plants in flower at the one time, or your garden will be a one-season wonder. Instead, shop several times during the year so that you can see a wide range of different plants at their best. Staggering your purchases will also make for a more varied selection of plants.

What to Look For
Buy a tree or shrub only if it looks healthy; the leaves should be in good condition, and the overall shape compact and bushy. It should have plenty of good, strong, evenly spaced branches, especially towards the base. Ideally, there should be no weeds growing in the pot, but the odd one or two is an indication that the plant is fairly established. The plant should be clearly labeled and the potting mix moist.

A plant that has pale, yellowing leaves is possibly pot-bound, and the potting mix lacking in fertilizer. Knock it out of the pot to see if the roots are a tangled mass or if they are growing thickly through the drainage holes; in either case, do not buy it. However, the roots need to be established and should fill the pot. Avoid dry or wilted plants, those with signs of pests or diseases, or those that are lopsided or have only a few shoots, because they will need remedial pruning to put right.

Grow Japanese maples, such as this purple-leaved variety, in a raised bed or container if your soil is alkaline.

Plant Size
The largest plants are not always the best ones to choose. Often the taller ones will have started to lose leaves lower down, so pick one that has a bushy, symmetrical shape and strong growth with foliage down to the base.

The size of the plant will also affect the time that it takes to establish. A larger plant will take longer for its roots to establish in the surrounding soil than a smaller specimen, which will catch up with the larger one in a couple of seasons. However, some slower-growing shrubs, such as magnolia and Acer palmatum var. dissectum, are worth buying as large specimens because otherwise they will take many years to reach the desired size and, in the case of the magnolia, to flower. Larger specimens are also ideal for an instant effect.

Shrubs that are easy to care for and low-maintenance

For a low-maintenance border, plant a backbone of easy-to-grow shrubs that can be relied on to give a good display every year without much attention.

Spiraea japonica 'Goldflame' (pictured above)
Young red tips turn a brassy color, then green. The foliage is best if hard-pruned each spring. Grows to 90 cm x 90 cm. A sun lover.

Camellia japonica
Large evergreen with pink, white or red winter flowers. Can grow to 4 m x 3 m over time but there are smaller types. Grow in well-drained soil in part shade.

Dwarf crepe myrtle
Deciduous shrub with summer flowers in white or shades of pink, red or lilac. The smallest type grows to only 1 meter tall.

Baeckea virgata
Evergreen shrub with long, weeping branches covered at Christmas with tiny white flowers. Will grow fast to about 2m x 2m, in full sun or part shade.

Pachystachys lutea
Erect evergreen shrub topped with spikes of yellow-and-white flowers from spring to autumn. Grows to 1.8m x 90cm, in part shade. Does not tolerate frost.

Viburnum tinus (pictured above)
A dense evergreen shrub with dark green leaves liberally dotted with small, white flowers from autumn to spring. Grows about 3 meters tall and wide. Sun or part shade.

Acalypha wilkesiana
Grown for its big evergreen leaves, splashed in various shades of red. Flowers occur in summer but the catkin-like bloom is not significant. Grows up to 3 meters tall.

Calliandra tweedii
Spreading evergreen with arching, horizontal branches and fine, ferny foliage. Crimson, puffball flowers most of the year. Grows to 3m x 5m. Full sun, frost sensitive.

Abelia floribunda
Arching evergreen with small, dark green leaves and tubular, rose-pink flowers late spring through to autumn. Grows to 2m x 2m. Prefers sun, tolerates part shade.

Hebe 'Autumn Glory'
Squat, globular evergreen with rounded leaves. Purple-blue flowers from early summer until late autumn. Grows to 75cm x 90cm. It likes a sunny position.

Choosing and caring for your shrubs

The choice of easy-care shrubs is vast. Most shrubs are hardy and need either no pruning or a simple pruning once a year and many require no specific soil type or position in the garden. Even if they do require some upkeep, sometimes it is possible to cut out one or two of the regular tasks to save time, keeping the end result just as pleasing. May bushes, for example, are grown for their massed spring flowers. Normally they are pruned by removing some of the oldest stems at ground level each year after bloom. To save time, this can be done every second or third year. Alternatively, cut the plant to the ground once every five years, right after bloom.

Densely foliaged shrubs, including the rose, and ground covers such as lamb's ear and geranium, exclude light from the soil and suppress weed growth.

Mix plant types to provide more seasonal color. Here, the hakonechloa grass and the fuchsia provide summer interest.

Soil and Position
Shrubs that require special soils or positions can take up time if planted in the wrong conditions. For example, for an azalea to thrive in poor, dry clay, a lot of work will be required to alter the soil's condition. Instead, if you want to include a plant not naturally suited to the soil in your garden, grow it in a large container or a raised bed using suitable compost. Some shrubs need particular amounts of shade or sun; if you cannot provide these, it is better not to include such shrubs in your scheme.

Mature Size
Before buying a plant, consider its mature size. There is no point in planting a shrub that grows to 3 m in a position where you want it to reach only 90 cm. Most shrubs can be pruned to size, but vigorous varieties will need pruning two or three times a year to keep them under control. Planting smaller varieties in the first place saves time.

Pruning
Consider when shrubs need to be pruned, and the number of other tasks that need doing at the same time. You may have more time to prune in early spring, for example, because there is no lawn mowing or weeding to be done. But if lots of shrubs are planted that need summer pruning, it can be a drain on your time when other jobs may require doing. Avoid this by planting shrubs that need a mixture of spring or summer pruning, or, better still, no pruning at all.

Moving Established Shrubs
Deciduous shrubs should be moved while dormant, and evergreens in autumn, or winter. Dig a small trench around the shrub so that you can get your spade underneath, and lift out a good-sized rootball. To compensate for the damage to the roots, prune back the top growth of deciduous shrubs by 25 per cent to reduce transpiration from the leaves. Evergreens should not be cut back, but they will benefit from protection from drying winds. To minimize moisture loss, spray with an anti-transpirant available from your garden center.

If you've got plenty of space, then a woodland garden would be a good alternative

A woodland garden is a mini forest that requires quite a lot of room. The trees should not be so densely planted that nothing will grow beneath them. For best results choose only smaller-growing trees and space them at least 10 m apart. Too many evergreens clumped together will cast a big area of dense shade. If you mostly use deciduous trees, you will be able to grow a wide range of spring bulbs and other winter-growing plants underneath. A woodland garden is quiet, sheltered and peaceful. And it is easy to maintain, although you will need to pull out any self-seeded saplings that appear.

Looking After a Woodland Garden

Spring and Summer

Paths
Start to mow grass paths once every two weeks or so in spring. Bare paths may need topping up with fresh bark chippings.

Watering
Any newly planted trees, shrubs and perennials should be kept watered to help them become established.

Weeding
Keep a 1 meter diameter circle free of weeds and grass around newly planted trees and shrubs.


Autumn

Grass Clippings
Cut long grass with a line trimmer or heavier-duty brush cutter. Rake off clippings and use as mulch. Thin out any dense ground growth.

Clear Leaves
Rake off fallen leaves, but use some as a natural mulch under shrubs and trees. Do not over mulch as this could rot young stems.

Planting
Plant bulbs for naturalizing. This is also the best time to plant new woodland trees and shrubs.

Weeding
Clear weeds and unwanted self-seeded saplings. The rule is: if you haven't planted it, don't let it grow.


Winter

Pruning
Cut out any damaged branches or those that show signs of disease. Also cut back branches that overhang paths, in order to keep access to the woodland open.

Combining Shrubs for Year-Round Color

Keep your garden looking good all year by planting a selection of easy-care shrubs, each with different attractions, making sure their flowering times vary.

Deciduous flowering
Chaenomeles x superba 'Crimson and Cold', Deutzia gracilis, Viburnum opulus 'Sterile', Weigela florida.

Evergreen flowering
Chaenomeles uncinatum, Choisya ternata, Euryops pectinatus, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Lavandula angustifolia 'Hidcote'.

Colored foliage
Acalypha wilkesiana, Aucuba japonica 'Crotonifolia', Codiaeum spp, Cotinus coggygria 'Royal Purple', Melaleuca incana, Pittosporum 'Silver Sheen'.

Fruits and berries
Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii, Eugenia reinwardtiana, Pyracantha 'Orange Glow', Syzygium wilsonii, Viburnum opulus 'Compactum'.

Autumn foliage and stem color
Acer palmatum 'Osakazuki', Cornus alba 'Sibirica', Nandina domestica 'Firepower', Sapium sebiferum.

Planting singly or in groups? - The question about borders for your garden.

The way a border is planted can play an important part in reducing the amount of time needed for maintenance. Once you have decided what to plant, you then have to decide whether to plant the shrubs or trees singly or in groups of the same variety. One advantage of planting many of one specimen in a group is the instant impact, due to the greater area covered: instead of a single flowering shrub, you see a mass of colorful flowers, stems or evergreen foliage. However, planting in groups will reduce the number of varieties that you can fit into a border.

In a larger garden, groups create a sense of scale in proportion to the surroundings and the greater space allows you to plant more than one group. On the other hand, in a small garden, it can be better to plant a mixture of single specimens together for interest.

Wide Planting
If you want to see each plant's individual shape, you need to give them ample space to develop, so plant at the distances recommended on the plant labels or in gardening books. This will also save you the work of thinning out overcrowded plants later on. However, you will have to wait several years for the border to establish fully and this method of planting exposes more bare soil, which allows weeds to grow. To save time weeding, plant the shrubs through mulch matting, or, for a more attractive result, fill the gaps with relatively short-lived shrubs, annual flowers or even groundcovers. As the main shrub planting grows, remove the temporary fillers (many will be past their best anyway) or, in the case of ground covers, allow the shrubs to grow over them.

Close Planting
For the busy gardener, closer planting than normally recommended achieves a more instant effect because the garden looks full from the start, and it means that the plants cover the ground, smothering weeds more effectively. But it is more expensive, and later on the shrubs will need frequent pruning or removal, otherwise the whole planting will become unattractively crowded. If you do plant closely, choose several of one variety; later, selected specimens can be removed without altering the overall effect.

Easy Maintenance
Don't plant shrubs too close to paths, driveways or boundary fences. As they grow they will spread to their maximum width and you will find yourself pruning at least once and perhaps several times a year to stop them encroaching on other areas.

Clearing ground for planting takes time. Spray perennial weeds like dandelions, clover, soursop and other oxalis and onion weed with a glyphosate-based weedkiller. Dig over the bed to loosen the soil, then position your shrubs and prepare generous planting holes. Fork over the base and sides of each hole but do not add compost or manure - organic matter belongs on top. After planting, mulch the whole border with rotted manure, compost or lucerne.

Quick Results
For a new border that will look established in just one season, plant a selection of quick-growing shrubs. Choose large shrubs such as Melaleuca incana or japonica camellias for the back of the border, and the smaller may bush and Esperance wax at the front. Keep them watered and fed in their first season so that they make good growth, achieving the height and interest needed.

Improving existing borders in your garden

Sometimes old garden borders lack interest, especially if some of the shrubs are past their best. One option is to replace all the shrubs and start again, but this is hard work and will leave you with empty spaces until the new shrubs begin to grow. A quicker method is to keep some of the existing plants to provide the structure for the new border and shrubs that offer more than one season of interest, then replace the rest - in particular, short-lived shrubs such as lavender, santolina and some natives - with healthier or more interesting plants. Thus the height and structure of the border are maintained while the shrubs become established.

Once the border has been thinned, the old shrubs that are being kept may look misshapen or bald at the base. You can transform their appearance by simple pruning, taking out a few of the oldest stems each spring, but don't prune them back hard because many shrubs may not regrow or may take years to flower again.

To fill the gaps quickly, buy a few larger specimens rather than several smaller plants but don't overplant the space available or you'll soon have the same problem again. Just keep in mind what the ultimate sizes of the shrubs you are planting will be, and space them accordingly. If the old foliage is mainly green, brighten up the display with shrubs that have golden, purple or variegated foliage. Even with all this replanting, you will still have bare ground, so you may choose to use annuals as a short-term filler while the new shrubs grow. As the months pass, you will have less and less space to fill and the garden bed will need less attention.

Before planting, improve the soil by forking in a bucketful of well-rotted organic matter for each square meter, and applying a ration of complete plant food. Once the new shrubs are in, water them regularly to help them grow faster and to compete against older plants with established root systems. If you choose not to fill bare spots with annuals, lay down mulch matting or an organic mulch to retain soil moisture and minimize weed growth. But remember, the longer bare patches remain, even covered by mulch, the greater the risk of weeds.

Making easy-maintenance borders using shrubs and trees

Trees and shrubs easily and effectively add long-lasting color and interest to a garden but, to keep down the workload, you will need to choose plants that need minimum pruning. Shrubs and trees can be used without the addition of other plants to create a beautiful planting on their own. They can also provide a permanent framework for a border that includes many other plants: for instance, they can form a background against which seasonal flowers are displayed, or they can be used individually to create a particular effect, such as a focal point. For the ultimate easy-care border, add only as many perennials and annuals as you have time to look after, because they generally need more upkeep.

Spend plenty of time planning what to put where, so you don't have to move plants around later. Walk around your neighborhood to see which trees and shrubs grow well in other gardens and which plants are invasive, and seek advice from your local garden centre or nursery. To decide on where to place a tree or shrub in the garden, especially one chosen to give height, use a cane or a tripod of canes which can be moved around the garden to give you an idea of where the new addition will fit in to best effect.

When choosing a tree, give particular consideration to its rate of growth and ultimate size, because a tree can survive for many decades, easily dominating a garden. A fast-growing plant may have the advantage of filling up empty spaces quickly, but it will need extra maintenance to keep it within bounds later on.

Decide first on the effect that you want to create - either using trees and shrubs in groups or singly - and then choose plants that suit your needs. If you want to focus the eye on the end of a garden bed to create a 'full stop', use an upright, columnar shape, such as a pencil pine, a clump of golden cane palms or the upright Taiwan cherry, Primus campanulata. To lead the eye across the garden, go for a low, spreading plant that gives a horizontal effect, such as Junipenis x media 'Pfitzeriana' or Calliandra tweedii. And for a good focal point, consider a compact, weeping tree, such as Primus subhirtella 'Pendula'. For greater impact, combine two different effects. For example, use the prostrate, horizontal Grevillea biternata with the multi-stemmed, upright Eucalyptus luehmanniana.

Color, texture and fragrance should also be considered. Trees with golden or variegated foliage, such as Robijiia pseudoacacia 'Frisia' or Acer negundo 'Variegata', can brighten up a dark part of the garden or contrast well against a dark background. Color can be used to create an illusion of space. Cool blues and purples, which fade into the background, can be used at the end of a small garden to make it look longer. To use size, color and texture in a cascading effect, plant the tallest plants at the back, graduating to the lowest in the front. Shrubs with scented foliage or flowers, such as a fragrant rose or Choisya ternata, are best near a path or doorway.

Creating interest

• Do find out the ultimate size of the plant and its rate of growth before buying. A tree that grows to 2 meters in ten years is slow-growing.
• Do select compact plants that require little or no pruning.
• Do use a few large, architectural plants, such as phormiums or cordylines, to create a dramatic effect, rather than lots of fussy, small plants.
• Don't select large, vigorous plants for a small garden. They will need constant pruning to restrict their size.
• Do create year-round visual interest by choosing plants with leaves in contrasting sizes, shapes, colors and textures.
• Don't plant winter-interest shrubs in a part of the garden used only in summer. Think of your needs.

Shrubs, roses and trees for your garden arrangement

Trees and shrubs form the ideal basis for an easy-care garden because this group of plants needs less maintenance than any other. Plants from this group provide interest all year round, giving a long sequence of flowers, fruits or berries, winter bark and stems, as well as variegated and evergreen foliage. Do not purchase all or even most of the shrubs for your garden at the one time: instead buy plants in every season, because you will see something new in flower every time you visit the garden centre. And don't look just for flowers, but also for interesting leaves, berries or bark.

Trees and shrubs provide the backbone of a garden's design, as their size and shape, and the color and texture of their bark and foliage can be used to great effect. Go for those that bloom reliably and are not susceptible to pests and diseases. That may mean leaving some of the most popular plants out of your plan - for instance, in very humid, warm areas both azaleas and roses are unwise choices, because they are plagued by pests and diseases that take a lot of time and effort to control. If you choose shrubs that are identified as quick growing, be prepared to spend the time pruning them each year.


Easy-care Calendar

Early Spring
Remove weeds and debris. Top up mulch to at least 5cm deep. Lay snail bait around seedlings and soft new growth.

Mid Spring
Sprinkle complete plant food evenly between the shrubs. Spot-treat established perennial weeds with a glyphosate-based weedkiller.

Late Spring
If frosts have damaged shrubs, snip off blackened shoots. If necessary, shape by pruning back straggly shoots.

Early Summer
Check roses and other shrubs for aphids and caterpillars. Use an all-purpose insecticide to minimize damage. Check watering systems to ensure all spray heads are working properly.

Mid Summer
Deadhead shrub roses not grown for hips by removing old flowerheads with 15cm of stem, cutting just above a leaf joint. Sprinkle rose food to promote flowering in autumn.

Autumn
Tidy up any debris before winter. Fallen leaves can be left as mulch on beds.


Starting from Scratch
You could assemble this border in less than half a day by planning ahead. Draw a plan and order plants in advance. Dig the soil thoroughly, incorporating well-rotted compost and fertilizer. When the plants arrive, wait for a fine day to plant them out. Then apply a mulch to keep down weeds.


Planting for year-round interest
Once this cool-climate planting is established, you need to spend only a few hours each year topping up the mulch, spot-treating persistent weeds and pruning unruly shrubs.

Making paths and steps for your garden

Building paths and steps requires a great deal of advance preparation so it is probably best left to a contractor. Point the cracks between slabs with mortar to prevent weeds taking hold. Heavily used paths need proper foundations, but paths that are used infrequently, such as an informal path through a garden bed, can be built relatively easily. Set paving slabs or bricks to half their depth in firmed soil. Or, to set bricks or paving slabs lightly in place, fork dry mortar mix into the top few centimeters of soil, set paving units in place, and then water them.


Stepping Stones
If a strip of lawn is becoming worn from frequent use, lay stepping stones as an informal path along the line where you need to walk. Cut out patches of turf a comfortable stride's length apart and deep enough for the stones to sit just below the level of the lawn, so that the mower is able to glide cleanly over the top of them. Tread down the soil to make a firm, level base and drop the stepping stones into place. If the stones are not steady or if they are set too low, lift them and sprinkle a little sand underneath.

Wild and Woodland Paths
For rustic 'stepping stones' through a wild or woodland garden, use 10cm thick wooden rounds which are available from landscape supply companies. For a more formal effect, excavate a level channel (about the same depth as the wooden rounds) through the soil. Edge it with pressure-treated boards nailed to wooden pegs that are driven into the ground. Lay out the rounds about a stride length apart and fill the rest of the channel with bark chippings. Space closely or you will be leaping, not stepping.

Bridge Feature
Make a quick and easy bridge over a narrow ditch or a stream by positioning two or more thick, parallel wooden planks or secondhand railway sleepers across the gap. Ensure that the planks are long enough to allow at least 90cm either side of the gap. Sink the ends 15cm or more into the soil with a layer of bricks underneath to make a firm foundation.

Simple Steps
For gentle inclines where the soil is very firm and stable, steps can be cut into the slope. Make them shallow and wide for greatest stability. Cut out the shape of the steps with a spade. Then set in railway sleepers to form the risers, angling them slightly backwards and holding them in place with sturdy stakes at each end. Fill the 'treads' with rammed rubble and top up with gravel. To ensure safety, check the steps regularly and reset loose or uneven areas.

Work-free surfaces with paving and gravel

Hard surfaces need virtually no maintenance. They can be used in all sorts of creative ways in place of a lawn. For instance, you can create a courtyard garden enclosed by walls, a Mediterranean-style garden surrounded by evergreens, a minimalist Japanese-style garden, a walkthrough rock garden, a modern patio or a traditional, formal terrace.

Gravel
The quickest and easiest surface to lay yourself is gravel. It is also very versatile, making it ideal for use in a garden that you may want to alter later. You can plant through gravel that has been laid over mulch matting. Gravel also makes an ideal surface for a courtyard. Several sizes and colors are readily available from landscape supply companies.

Pavers
Once good foundations have been established, pavers are quick to lay. Point the cracks between them with mortar to prevent weeds getting a foothold. Pavers need not be dull. They are available in various shapes, sizes, colors and surface finishes, including some that resemble natural stone. The pavers can be laid in different patterns and combinations of types of finish for an unusual effect. Textured finishes are non-slip, but you should avoid deeply textured patterns because they trap soil, are difficult to clean, and encourage moss and algae.

River Stones
Although time-consuming to lay, rounded river stones are good for decorative detail in small areas such as between pavers or around a fountain or other feature. They are also useful in awkward corners and, because they are hard to walk on, for discouraging people from areas where you don't want them to go. For a successful low-maintenance finish, bed the stones in cement so that weeds are not able to grow up between them. Pebbles, which are smaller stones with rounded shapes, can also be used.

Bricks and Concrete Blocks
These take longer to lay than pavers because they are smaller, but a wide range of effects can be achieved from the colors and styles available. Old bricks look irregular and give a rustic appearance but, if you have a new house, use new bricks or small clay pavers of the same color as were used in the house. Bricks can be laid in traditional patterns, in a basket-weave or herringbone style, or in more adventurous designs, such as a sweeping arc. Concrete-block paving, available in a range of colors, is easy to lay on an 8cm layer of river sand over a firm base. Timber decking Wood will blend in naturally with any garden design, and is easier on the eye and more forgiving underfoot than paved surfaces. Either pressure-treated softwood or hardwood is used. Hardwood will last longer but costs at least three times as much. Timber decking is available in self-assembly kits, or you can hire a specialist contractor to do the job for you.

Decorative Finishes
Colored, moulded surfaces can be cast by specialist contractors who re-create traditional finishes, such as those of cobbles or natural stone. No cracks are left for weeds to colonize. The surface can be laid over existing paving.


Good foundations

Laying hard surfaces
Paving work takes time and skill so, unless you are keen on DIY, it is advisable to employ a contractor. Surfaces that take the weight of garden furniture or equipment, or are frequently walked over, need proper foundations - at least 10cm of road base well packed down (best done with a hired plate compactor). Patios should slope slightly so that rainwater runs off them away from the house.

A garden for the whole family

Families make many conflicting demands on a garden. Children need space to play and keep pets, while adults want an attractive environment in which to relax and entertain friends. The design of a family garden needs to reflect these different requirements and be flexible enough to evolve as the family grows up.


Child friendly plants

There are many easily grown, non-toxic plants soft enough to do no harm if children fall against them, yet resilient enough to survive garden games.

Shrubs for sun
Acalypha, bottle-brush, buddleja, calliandra, cistus, fuchsia, hebe, lavender, murraya, rosemary, santolina, senecio and spiraea.

Shrubs for shade
Camellia, cornus, euonymus (evergreen), grapto-phyllum, hovea, hydrangea, kerria, Philodendron selloum, viburnum, vinca.

Perennials for sun
Achillea, agapanthus, artemisia, calamintha, coreopsis, geranium (cranesbill), heliotrope, kangaroo paws, salvia and catmint (Nepeta).

Perennials for shade
Ajuga, Alchemilla mollis, clivia, bergenia, brunnera, epimedium, Japanese anemone, lamium, Viola hederacea and V. odorata.

Cuddly plants
Bunny's ears (Stachys byzantina), Jerusalem sage (Phlomis fruticosa), Salix lanata, Salvia argentea, Verbascum olympicum.

Ground cover alternatives for your garden

Where you want the low openness of lawn but not the work associated with it, a spreading ground cover can be the ideal choice. You won't be able to walk, lie, play games or wash the car on it, but once it is established and is forming a thick cover over the ground, your only work will be to water it when necessary and perhaps to pull out the occasional persistent weed.

The best ground cover is one that spreads quickly in all directions from the planting point and which grows thickly enough to exclude light from the soil, thereby preventing weeds from growing. Many climbers can be used as ground covers, Chinese star jasmine and Hardenbergia violacea being two of the best for this purpose. But there are also shrubs that cover the ground, such as the grevilleas 'Poorinda Royal Mantle’, 'Fanfare' and 'Bronze Rambler', or Lantana montevidensis with its masses of mauve or white flowers. Other good choices include the soft-stemmed but tough Convolvulus sabatius which grows in sun or shade, Scaevola aemula, an Australian perennial which covers itself in deep blue flowers for months on end, and arctotis, a South African perennial with big colorful daisies over its grey, lobed leaves. There are dozens more but don't be tempted to plant one of everything. Instead, choose only one to cover the whole area - after all, lawn consists of one species that looks good by itself.

Before establishing ground covers, it's important to kill off everything that grows in the chosen area now. If you don't, you'll have grasses and weeds coming up through the ground cover later, creating an untidy appearance. Spray the area with a herbicide, then, after a few days, when the chemical has started to work, water thoroughly to encourage seeds to germinate, and spray again. It may be necessary to treat the area a few times, so don't be in a hurry to put in the new plants. A permanently weed-free result is well worth the wait.


Good Ground Covers

Anything that covers the ground densely, preventing light from reaching the soil, is a ground cover - and that can include big, spreading evergreen shrubs that provide thick foliage right down to the ground.

Taller, shrubby ground covers
Leptosperrnum flavescens 'Cardwell', Crevillea 'Superb', Bauera rubioides, Euryops pectinatus, Baeckea virgata 'Nana', diosma, Eranthemum pulchellum.

Lower, shrubby ground covers
Hebe propinqua and other hebes, many of the ericas (heaths), Banksia spinulosa, Lavender 'Hidcote', Epacris microphylla, cushion bush and curry plant.

Cround-hugging plants
Evolvulus pilosus, Crevillea 'Poorinda Royal Mantle', Hibbertia scandens, ox-eye chamomile (Anthemis), snow-in-summer, Pratia pedunculata and creeping thyme.

Shade-tolerant plants
Baby's tears, mondo grass, Chinese star jasmine, Heterocentron elegans, Houttuynia cordata, Lamium maculatum, Plectranthus cilistus and Pachysandra terminalis.

Grass-free 'lawns' sown with color

Herb lawns and ground-cover plants are easier to maintain than a grass lawn because they do not require regular mowing. They are often more successful than traditional lawns in difficult situations, such as dry sunny sites, on steep banks or in shade under trees. But non-grass lawns are not a perfect substitute for grass, as they won't stand much wear. If you need to walk through a non-grass lawn regularly, cut a path or put in a series of stepping stones.


Ground-cover plants
A quick-care alternative to grass on a steep bank, which can be difficult to cut, are ground-cover plants such as snow-in-summer. Or use knee-high plants that if planted tightly will also suppress weeds. For even more effective weed control, especially if the ground harbors perennial weeds, cover the bank with mulch matting before planting, then plant thickly with evergreens to hide the mulch and smother weeds.

Steep banks dry out quickly, so choose drought-tolerant plants that save you watering often in summer, such as hebe, erigeron or cistus in sun, and mondo grass or euonymus in shade. For a sunny bank in a cooler climate, with acid, slightly moist but well-drained soil, a dense carpet of mixed ericas, some with colored foliage, will look good all year. It will also cope well with an exposed location.

Plants used as ground cover generally require little routine maintenance. They can be tidied up in spring if damaged by winter frosts and given a feed once a year with complete plant food. For bushy evergreens, a light shearing all over, right after blooming, helps keeps them neat and compact. If you are using climbers as ground covers, just trim away any wayward shoots or those that are starting to clamber into other plants.

Herb lawns
A well-drained, sunny site is vital for a successful herb lawn. To suppress weeds, spread mulch matting over the prepared soil and plant through it. Hide the matting with a 5 cm layer of gravel. Plant with a mixture of creeping thymes or the non-flowering chamomile, Chamaemelum nobile 'Treneague', spaced 25cm apart. Little maintenance is necessary. Trim thyme lawns lightly after flowering to tidy up deadheads. Or, clip the chamomile in summer to keep compact, but no shorter than 10cm. Feed with a general fertilizer in spring. Once a herb lawn is established, it has become adapted to its position and there is no need to water it.

Alpine lawn
In cooler climates, where summers are mild, a decorative alpine lawn is ideal for a low-maintenance front garden. A mixture of low, creeping or spreading rock plants, such as New Zealand burr (Acaena), thrift (Armeria maritima), rockery pinks (Dianthus), Sedum spathulifolium and sempervivum, require little weeding if the beds are mulched with 5cm of stone chippings. An alpine lawn grows best when naturally drought-tolerant species can be planted in a fairly sunny spot with very good drainage. To keep the lawn looking good, top up the chippings in spring and remove any weeds.

Bulb carpets
In deciduous woodland or under deciduous trees, a carpet of bluebells or daffodils requires virtually no maintenance, but it does demand a cool to cold winter. The bulb foliage smothers early weeds, and shade combined with dry soil in summer makes it impossible for most weeds to survive. To encourage flowering year after year, feed the bulbs with a general fertilizer or bulb food after they have flowered but before the foliage dies down. Remove any problem weeds, such as blackberries, by cutting them back and spot-treating regrowth with a glyphosate-based weedkiller. Do not remove fallen leaves during the autumn because they build up to form a weed-suppressing mulch and gradually release nutrients that improve the soil.

Easy maintenance front yards with spaces for cars

A car parking space doesn't have to be purely functional: it can also look attractive. The golden rule is that the larger the parking area, the greater the need will be to break up the monotonous appearance of paving. This can be done in several ways: by introducing a variety of textures and colors; by using more than one paving material; by creating a single central bed, either circular or elliptical, which is positioned so that cars can easily drive right round it; or by adding ornamental edging or clusters of containers.


Easy-care driveways

Solid construction is vital for an area regularly driven over by vehicles. You will need at least 15cm of firmly compacted road base for the foundations. The surface material you choose depends on the look you want to achieve and how much time is available for maintenance. Because of its soft appearance and versatility, gravel is good for large areas and those that are curved or have an irregular shape. It is cheap and easy to lay, and its natural color and texture blend well with most building materials, architectural styles and surroundings. The crunching sound made by walking on it also acts as a good burglar deterrent. However, to look smart, gravel needs occasional raking and weed control. It also needs a firm edge to stop stones from 'creeping' into other areas.

A variety of paving materials helps to break up the appearance of this driveway. A curved raised bed filled with evergreens and mulched with gravel keeps the workload to a minimum and makes access straightforward.

Gravel allows water to drain through it naturally, but hard paving materials must be laid with a slight slope for efficient drainage. Pavers are durable, clean and practical. Traditional sets are small, cube-like, usually granite blocks that are very hard-wearing. Concrete is comparatively inexpensive, but may look austere, although companies specializing in pattern imprinting can produce a decorative finish. Other options include asphalt and exposed aggregate.


Planting in driveways

At the edges of the driveway, plant tough plants, such as ground-covering juniper or creeping thymes, which will survive an occasional clipping by a car tire. Many ornamental grasses and sedges are suitable for this position too: bronze-colored Carex comans and white-striped Carex oshimensis 'Variegata' add evergreen foliage that cascades over the edge of the paving. For a shady drive, choose hardy ferns such as Doodia aspera or tough mondo grass. In a central bed choose robust, low-growing plants, such as Ajuga reptans 'Multicolor', gazania or Grevillea 'Poorinda Royal Mantle'.